The first Czech women at the top of the dreaded Pakistani eight-thousanders

At the end of July, two Krkonoše mountaineers, Lenka Erlebachová and Karolina Grohová, managed to make history not only in Czech alpinism by being the first Czech women to stand on the summit of the dreaded Pakistani eight-thousanders Gasherbrum 1 (8080 m). Moreover, the girls managed to make the ascent in the so-called light expedition style without artificial oxygen and without the help of altitude carriers and the security of mountain guides.

The purity and elegance with which the Krkonoše climbers managed to reach the summit has no comparison in contemporary female alpinism. The overwhelming majority of contemporary female climbers ascend eight-thousanders with artificial oxygen, and especially under the guidance and assistance of professional male teams. With their performance and approach they continue the legacy of the pioneer of Czech high-altitude climbing Dina Štěrbová.

The expedition started on June 28, 2024. The final destination was the capital of Pakistan, Islamabad. From there, the girls had to drive for more than twenty hours along the legendary Karakoram Highway to Skardu. Skardu serves as the administrative centre of the Gilgit-Baltistan region, and also serves as the main base for expeditions heading towards the peaks in the Baltoro Glacier region.

The actual ascent to the base of the mountain begins in Askola, which is still about ten hours away from Skardu, often by a thrilling off-road vehicle. The trek across the Baltoro Glacier is a five-day hike through challenging terrain, ending at base camp at 5000 m. The trek itself is a real feast for the eyes, one can admire iconic peaks such as Trango Towers, Masherbrum and especially the eight-thousand-thousand giants K2, Broad peak and Gahebrum 1 and Gashenrum 2.

Authentic statements of the climbers about the expedition:

The alpha and omega of climbing in high mountains is the weather and the resulting condition of the mountain. This season in the Karakoram was extremely challenging. The constant snowfall and strong winds were quickly replaced by a deadly heat, which created challenging conditions. Our expedition included two acclimatization rotations to C2 (6400 m), then we waited in BC for a summit window of good weather and then made a successful summit attempt.

The route from BC (5000 m) to C1 (6000 m) was through a challenging ice labyrinth that changed in appearance and permeability with each day's weather. The most difficult section, the so-called Japanese couloir, was full of snow and thus posed a significant avalanche hazard.

 Thus, our route took us a short distance from the couloir in the initial stages, through a rocky-ice section, before joining back into the couloir, where there was knee-deep, in places waist-deep, slippery sandy snow. Fortunately, this section was fixed by experienced Nepali Sherpas with clients from Imagine Nepal in conjunction with Sherpas from Seven Summits agency, which facilitated our progression from C2 to C3 (7050m).

It took us 11 hours to reach the summit from C3 and we stood on the summit at 6pm on July 28. We were the only ones enjoying the sunset with views of Gasherbrum 2, 3, 4, K2 and Broad Peak. As evening fell, we began our descent knowing that we must not make a single mistake that could be fatal. The journey back to C3 took us 4 hours of concentrated pacing. The weather was in our favor; the highest passes were almost windless and unbelievably warm for such a high altitude.

This climb showed us the importance of preparation, both physical and technical. At the same time, one of the most important aspects for us was the psychological support we gave each other not only during the assault to the summit, but also throughout our stay in Pakistan.Our hearts remain in the mountains and we look forward to the adventures the mountains will bring.

LENKA ERLEBACHOVÁ - former alpine skiing representative, ski mountaineer and climber, real estate agent.

Significant alpine peaks: Matterhorn, Weisshorn, north face of Ortler, north face of Grossglockner, Piz Roseq, Piz Bernina, south face of Dachstein...

2024 - the most challenging alpine ski crossing of the High Tatras - the Tatarka crossing

Experience in the world's high mountains: Peru 2022: Pisco (5752), Chopicalqui (6354), Alpamayo (5947) Nepal 2023: Lobuche (6119), attempt on Cholatse (6440)

KAROLÍNA GROHOVÁ - cross-country skier (2x participant at the Winter Olympic Games) , ski mountaineer, climber and athlete, teacher at the primary school in Spindleruv Mlyn.

Significant alpine peaks: Mont Blanc, Weisshorn, north face of Ortler, Piz Roseq, Piz Bernina, Grossglockner ......

Experience in world summits: China 2018: Muztag Ata (7546) Peru 2019: Chopicalqui (6354), attempt on Huascaran (6768) Pakistan 2021: Gasherbrun II (8035) Pakistan 2022: attempt onBroad Peak (8051) (ascent to 8000).

Gasherbrum = translated from the local language means Beautiful Mountain. There is no doubt that it is really beautiful. In English it is also called Hidden Peak. Gasherbrum I is located in the Karakoram Mountains of Pakistan. The mountain has a difficult ascent and a small, pointed peak. Its biggest technical challenges are at around 7,000 metres (the 70-degree, 600-metre-long "Japanese Couloir").

- The first place on GI belongs to an American climbing expedition. After passing the south face, Peter Schoening and Andrew Kauffman will stand on the summit for the first time on July 5, 1958.

- The first woman, Marie-José Valençot of France, reached the summit via the American route in 1982.

Photos by: Lenka Erlebachová, Tomáš Vorel